Guide To Archery

Bowtech 60

Looking to buy a new bow.?

I am looking to buy a bow. I live in Kansas, and I want to deer/turkey hunt with it. I plan on Hunting out of a treestand, groundblind, or stalking. I want a bow that is very flexible with how I want to hunt. I have never owned a bow, but I know I have about a 29 inch Draw Length and a 50-60 pound draw weight. So: SOMETHING WITH UP TO A 30-31 Inch Draw LENGTH, AND AT LEAST A 60 POUND DRAW WEIGHT.

Could you please help point me in the right direction? I don't mind spending a good amount of money because I know the bow will last me a lifetime. I have been looking at the Bowtech Admiral, Hoyt Vectrix, and the Martin Saber. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO RECCOMEND OTHER BOWS!!!

What do I need to look for when buying a bow (axle to axle, etc...) and what do these things cause (quieter, vibration, etc...).

Firstly, there are many good bows out there. There are many that aren't so great either.
The best way to determine what is the right bow for you is like somewhat going to buy a new pair of shoes. One that might be right for one is all wrong for the next. And the most expensive bow is not necessarily the best one for your needs. Go to your favorite reputable outfitter or archery shop and try as many as you can, you will find one that just "fits" and fits your ulimate needs too. When buying your bow, if you can, take a friend with experience shooting/hunting with a bow and he/she can advise you point for point what to look for and what to avoid.
Many of the parallel arm bows don't have an option for a 31 inch draw with the max being 30 inches. There are a range of let off percentages, when deer hunting, you may have to draw back and hold it for an extended period of time and the higher let off percentages can be a blessing.
The smaller axel to axel bows are great for getting in and out of tight places as well as in and out of trees stands, they help their with maneuverability around tree limbs etc when shooting... I love the lighter weights of the bows today too.
The longer the riser length on the limbs the more forgiving the bow is with accuracy. Look for a 7 1/4" riser or greater. I like aluminum risers, I prefer a pulley and Single Cam system, but that's a personal preference. Look for one that length of draw adjustment modules can be adjusted without a bow press. There should be up to 3 adjustments per module. The design of the limb pockets can add or subtract additonal noise. Choose carefully. Vibration elimination helps with accuracy as well with the life of the bow.
Accesories can make or break even a good bow. Take them as seriously as the bow. And again, the most expensive is not always the best. Good silencing equipment will be rewarded in bringing home the meat. Many like a pendulum sight, I prefer a fixed fiber Optic Sight. The wisker biscuit is the bomb, wears your fletchings a bit faster, but the stability is worth it when in a stand hunting.
Pick a quality release it will pay for itself many times over.
Hope you find your perfect bow.

More selections for Bowtech 60 from eBay!

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Looking to buy a new bow.?

I am looking to buy a bow. I live in Kansas, and I want to deer/turkey hunt with it. I plan on hunting out of a treestand, groundblind, or stalking. I want a bow that is very flexible with how I want to hunt. I have never owned a bow, but I know I have about a 29 inch draw length and a 50-60 pound draw weight. So: SOMETHING WITH UP TO A 30-31 INCH DRAW LENGTH, AND AT LEAST A 60 POUND DRAW WEIGHT.

Could you please help point me in the right direction? I don't mind spending a good amount of money because I know the bow will last me a lifetime. I have been looking at the Bowtech Admiral, Hoyt Vectrix, and the Martin Saber. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO RECCOMEND OTHER BOWS!!!

What do I need to look for when buying a bow (axle to axle, etc...) and what do these things cause (quieter, vibration, etc...).

Firstly, there are many good bows out there. There are many that aren't so great either.
The best way to determine what is the right bow for you is like somewhat going to buy a new pair of shoes. One that might be right for one is all wrong for the next. And the most expensive bow is not necessarily the best one for your needs. Go to your favorite reputable outfitter or archery shop and try as many as you can, you will find one that just "fits" and fits your ulimate needs too. When buying your bow, if you can, take a friend with experience shooting/hunting with a bow and he/she can advise you point for point what to look for and what to avoid.
Many of the parallel arm bows don't have an option for a 31 inch draw with the max being 30 inches. There are a range of let off percentages, when deer hunting, you may have to draw back and hold it for an extended period of time and the higher let off percentages can be a blessing.
The smaller axel to axel bows are great for getting in and out of tight places as well as in and out of trees stands, they help their with maneuverability around tree limbs etc when shooting... I love the lighter weights of the bows today too.
The longer the riser length on the limbs the more forgiving the bow is with accuracy. Look for a 7 1/4" riser or greater. I like aluminum risers, I prefer a pulley and single cam system, but that's a personal preference. Look for one that length of draw adjustment modules can be adjusted without a bow press. There should be up to 3 adjustments per module. The design of the limb pockets can add or subtract additonal noise. Choose carefully. Vibration elimination helps with accuracy as well with the life of the bow.
Accesories can make or break even a good bow. Take them as seriously as the bow. And again, the most expensive is not always the best. Good silencing equipment will be rewarded in bringing home the meat. Many like a pendulum sight, I prefer a fixed Fiber Optic sight. The wisker biscuit is the bomb, wears your fletchings a bit faster, but the stability is worth it when in a stand hunting.
Pick a quality release it will pay for itself many times over.
Hope you find your perfect bow.

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